Braised oxtail raviolo with wild mushroom risotto, leek cream, braised cabbage and parsley oil
This recipe was the culmination of my week’s experimentation with braising with not one, but two braised elements.
This recipe was the culmination of my week’s experimentation with braising with not one, but two braised elements.
Braising is its own special kind of magic. You take a cheaper, tougher cut of meat and you let it braise gently, bubbling away for several hours. And at the end, you have a thing transformed. All that sinew and connective tissue that would have made eating so difficult and unfulfilling has melted into a rich flavourful jus to go along with what’s become tender-as-you-like meat.
I recently made the trip to Birmingham to carry out an interview for the podcast I do (it’s not about food, but rather broadly-defined change-makers). I figured that, since the interview was scheduled for the afternoon, I might as well see if I could dig out somewhere interesting to have lunch.
I’ve had my Sous Vide Supreme water bath for a number of years now. Maybe as long as a decade.
One of the discoveries of spending a week in Tuscany was the budino di riso - little rice pudding tarts - that were on sale in some of the cafes.
I’ve made a mushroom mousse, or a custard, several times in the last year or so. But I invited a vegan friend to lunch recently, and thought that it would be a great thing opportunity to develop a vegan version.
It was a sheer fluke that on the final day of my Tuscan holiday, I ended up watching the first episode of the new Netflix show Salt Fat Acid Heat.
Having spent a week in Tuscany, I came back keen to spend a bit more time exploring the food culture and trying out a few things in the kitchen.
At this year’s Aldeburgh Food Festival, one of the more interesting supplies I managed to get hold of was some diced goat meat. I’d eaten goat just the once - a rather extraordinarily expensive meal I had once in Dubai having gone to speak at some conference or another.
As we entered the second half of the week in Tuscany, we really wanted to see a great food market, and get to the coast where the seafood would be fresh and abundant.
No recipes this week - I’m on holiday in Tuscany. You know, the kind of holiday where you spend two hours of every day doing work which, in this case, means writing food blogs and editing and producing podcasts.
If you’re talking to anyone who actively campaigns on, or who even just cares about, sustainable food one principle is rarely argued - that standard approaches to food production are all wrong, and we need something else to make it better. Organic. Or Vegan. Or small-scale farming.
I wouldn’t claim to be especially plugged in to the food scene in Norwich, but even I picked up the buzz that went around the city when the Ivy Norwich opened.
These are wonderful moist hits of chocolatey goodness. The fact that they are gluten-free is almost incidental, since you’d be hard pushed to spot any difference between these and standard brownies.
Considering I don’t have any apple trees, I seem to have a creditable glut of apples going on right now.
I have a default curry spicing that I lazily use when I need something quickly and I have no inventive energy left after a hard day.
One of my favourite desserts of last year was the ‘Nanny Bush’s Trifle’ I had at Benedicts in Norwich. It’s a trifle, but not as we understand it.
I’m not sure I can get away with describing these as Singapore Noodles, predominantly because I decided to cut the quantity of noodles by half.
It’s the simplest thing in the world. A meaty white fish. A delicious creamy Dijon mustard sauce. Marriage made in heaven.
This is a delicious and tasty salad, particularly for a dinner party where you want to eat extraordinarily good food, but you don’t want your guests to be leaving the evening completely stuffed and needing to go onto a diet the very next day as penance.