This recipe was the culmination of my week’s experimentation with braising with not one, but two braised elements.
Braising is its own special kind of magic. You take a cheaper, tougher cut of meat and you let it braise gently, bubbling away for several hours. And at the end, you have a thing transformed. All that sinew and connective tissue that would have made eating so difficult and unfulfilling has melted into a rich flavourful jus to go along with what’s become tender-as-you-like meat.
I recently made the trip to Birmingham to carry out an interview for the podcast I do (it’s not about food, but rather broadly-defined change-makers). I figured that, since the interview was scheduled for the afternoon, I might as well see if I could dig out somewhere interesting to have lunch.
I’ve made a mushroom mousse, or a custard, several times in the last year or so. But I invited a vegan friend to lunch recently, and thought that it would be a great thing opportunity to develop a vegan version.
At this year’s Aldeburgh Food Festival, one of the more interesting supplies I managed to get hold of was some diced goat meat. I’d eaten goat just the once - a rather extraordinarily expensive meal I had once in Dubai having gone to speak at some conference or another.
If you’re talking to anyone who actively campaigns on, or who even just cares about, sustainable food one principle is rarely argued - that standard approaches to food production are all wrong, and we need something else to make it better. Organic. Or Vegan. Or small-scale farming.
This is a delicious and tasty salad, particularly for a dinner party where you want to eat extraordinarily good food, but you don’t want your guests to be leaving the evening completely stuffed and needing to go onto a diet the very next day as penance.